Cooking in Cycles: Crustaceans in the Shell

Covid day 365 - Finding life repetitive in the kitchen?‌‌‌‌ Put a few cooking cycles to work for you.

With the purchase of one major ingredient you can plan a series of different meals and even freeze leftovers for yet another meal.

In this series of posts, we will look at how to do that with a few fundamental ingredients I am particularly fond of.

Today, we will start with raw or cooked shrimp or prawns in the shell (as purchased at your local fish shop or super market). Technically different species, both shrimp and prawns are crustaceans with 10 legs. Shrimp tend to be smaller and live in salt water while prawns can be larger and live in fresh or brackish water. For culinary purposes they are treated the same way.

Shrimp and prawns are usually sold cooked, in the shell. If you live by the sea or have a particularly good fish shop, you may find some that are raw - or "green" as they are termed - often King prawns to be cooked in the shell over a barbecue.

These crustaceans are delicious, but many of us may feel intimidated at the idea of cooking them from scratch. Fear not, they are actually far easier than they seem, once you get past the messy first part of peeling them. But with that little bit of effort, and a bit of advice from your friendly host, you will see your efforts repaid in spades all week, as they keep on giving!

We will even use the shells of these crustaceans to make a flavoursome stock you can use in a risotto or in a fish sauce - or as the basis for a fish soup or creamy, tomato-flavoured bisque. Here are some simple recipes to serve them cold or hot, in a variety of ways.

Ingredients (for 4 people)‌‌:

• raw or cooked (and frozen) small to medium sized shrimp in the shell - 500g

SUGGESTION: Equipment needed:

• pairing knife
• board
• small bowl

Not sure what a pairing knife is? Read more about these utensils on the page on basic equipment.

Preparing shrimps: messy but easy

First things first, we need to turn our bag of in-the-shell shrimp or prawns into something we can eat. This means shelling (peeling) them. Although messy and tedious, it's worth doing all the shrimp at once.

If the shrimp are raw (often called "green") you will need to cook them first. Throw them into a large saucepan of  boiling water, add 1tsp of salt, and cook for about 5 minutes. Lift out the cooked prawns with a slotted spoon and let them cool.

If the shrimp are already cooked but frozen, unfreeze them to room temperature, then proceed as follows.

Here's how to do it. Holding the shrimp firmly in one hand, remove the head (just pull it off) and set aside. I usually do this first to all the shrimp.  Next, holding the other part (the tail) firmly in one hand, with a small vegetable pairing knife (or just with your thumb and forefinger) lift up a bit of the shell and prise it off in a circular motion, a bit like tearing off a plastic blister on a bottle top.

Don't throw the heads and shells out! With them you are going to make a delicious, simple stock that you can use straight away - or freeze for use at another time. A few table spoons of this concentrated liquid will add depth and character to any sea-food dish you cook.

Now for a few storage tips: If you do not have the time to make the stock straight away just store the shells and heads in a tightly closed plastic bag in the freezer.

Similarly, if you are not using all the peeled shrimp at once, pat the cooked or raw shrimp with kitchen paper and freeze in small containers.‌‌ They unfreeze very fast and can be used in the following recipes.

Your own home-made shrimp stock in 20 minutes

Place the shells and heads in a saucepan with enough water to cover them (about a litre), a bouquet garni (i.e. parsley stems, a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf), a shallot (or onion) cut up roughly and a 1-2 small pieces of lemon (with the rind) and a few pepper corns. Don't add salt, as pre-cooked or frozen pre-cooked shrimp and prawns are often quite salty.

Cover with a lid and simmer gently (do not boil) for 20 min. Crush the heads with a slotted spoon as you strain out the liquid into a bowl or jar.

For a more spicey, South East Asian flavour, add a slice of fresh ginger, a piece of lemon grass, coriander spice or stems and a pinch of chili to the cooking liquid.

A useful tip: once you've made your stock, you won't want that fishy smell to linger too long in the kitchen.  Be sure to put the cooked shells and heads in a paper bag or newspaper and empty your bin fast! If you can't empty your bin right away, close the leftovers up tightly in a plastic bag and freeze them. You can then throw out the frozen bag at the appropriate moment.

Keeping the stock: place in the fridge in a tightly closed glass jar or plastic container. Stock will keep for 3-4 days. If you have any doubts, bring it to the boil again for a few minutes. If you know you won't be using it, freeze the stock like ice-cubes and remove to a plastic bag in the freezer. You can then use them a few at a time, as needed.

Fresh shrimp

Now that all your shrimp are peeled and ready to go, here are a few of my favourite options:

On toast

Simplicity itself. Spread the toast with butter / margarine, mayonnaise or smashed avocado sprinkled with chopped herbs and/or shallots. Place the peeled shrimp on top - usually a couple, depending on size. Add a squeeze of lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste.

Diced shrimp mixture

Cut the shrimp into two or three pieces (depending on their size). Put them in a small bowl. Add a finely diced small shallot, some finely cut herbs (dill or tarragon are particularly good, parsley works well, as does fresh coriander/cilantro).  Add the juice of half a lemon and toss. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise, salt and pepper to taste. Serve in the centre of half avocados, with the extra mixture on the side. Can also be part of a mixed plate with sliced tomato, lettuce, potato salad and a hard-boiled egg.  Crusty bread and extra mayonnaise on the side!

In a salad with grapefruit, avocado and sweet corn

Using a larger bowl, make the same mixture. Peel the avocado (1 for 2 to 4 servings according to size) and cut into small pieces. Peel a pink grapefruit; separate the quarters; lift out the pips. If you have the time and energy, take the fine skin off each quarter; if you don't, just cut the quarters into 2-3 pieces each and add to the mixture. Add in a small tin of sweet corn (drained). Taste for seasoning. You may need more shallot, herbs or mayonnaise. Can be served individually in glass dishes or in a bowl.

Don't know how to make mayonnaise? Either make your own (see recipe....) or buy a jar of ready-made.

Hot shrimp

Shrimp are great as a main dish. Now that you have your own stock, it will add flavour and depth to your dishes.

Risotto

Use the shrimp stock as the basis for a standard sea-food risotto.

Ingredients

• 2 cups arborio or carnaroli rice
• 2 tbspoons butter/margarine or olive oil
• 1 l shrimp stock
• 1 shallot - cut fine
• garlic 1 clove (peeled)
• peeled shrimp
• herbs

Equipment

• a heavy-bottom saucepan with lid
• a small frying pan

Method

Risotto - Heat the oil in the saucepan over moderate heat. When it moves easily in the pan, throw in the diced shallots, stir and let them cook until softened (5-8 mins). Add the 2 cups of rice and stir to ensure all the grains become shiny. Add in enough stock to cover the rice (around cup), a bay leaf, stir well and cover (4-5 mins). When the rice has started to absorb the liquid, repeat the operation several times - until all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is cooked (about 20 minutes).  You have to be in the kitchen watching and acting - no going back to the computer! I prefer my risotto creamier and softer than al dente (almost crunchy) but it's a matter of individual taste - and of timing.

Shrimp - separately sautée the peeled shrimp in a frying pan in a little vegetable oil with the finely chopped garlic for 2-3 minutes. (If you like it spicey, add a dash of chili powder, Tony Chachere or whatever.) Toss in 1-2 tbsp of chopped parsley and set aside.

A few minutes before serving add the lightly sautéed shrimp to the cooked risotto; add salt and freshly ground pepper to taste; heat briefly if necessary.

Bisque

Whisk 1 tb cornstarch into 1 l of cold shrimp stock, stir and bring to a simmer over a moderate heat (5 mn): the stock will thicken slightly; add 3-4 tb of tomato purée, a glass of white wine, a dash of Tabasco (optional) and simmer for another 5 mn. If you want a thicker soup, stir another tb of cornstarch in to 1-2 tb of water, then add to the soup and simmer until thickened. Serve with a dash of cream and croutons made from left-over bread sautéed in butter or oil.

Sautéed raw or cooked shrimp

Ingredients

• 2 tbspoons margarine or vegetable oil
• 1 shallot or onion - cut fine
• garlic 1 clove (peeled & chopped)
• ginger 1 small piece peeled - cut fine (optional)
• spices (satay 1 tb, or tandoori 1 tb, or chili powder 1 tsp)
• peeled shrimp (250 g in the shell for 2 people)
• 1-2 bell peppers (red, green, yellow) cut into fine strips
• coconut milk - 1 cup or more
• fresh coriander/cilantro - chopped
• lemon or lime (optional)

Equipment

• 1 heavy-bottom saucepan with lid

Method

Sautée finely chopped garlic and sliced shallots or onions (and chopped ginger if liked) in vegetable oil for 2-3 mn, add SE Asian or Indian spices (e.g. satay or tandoori or a little chili powder) and cook over low heat for 2-3 mn. Add the sliced peppers and cook, uncovered, over a moderate heat (5-10 mn). When the peppers are cooked (more or less according to taste) add the peeled prawns and toss them in the mixture for about 5 mn (as the shrimp/prawns are already cooked they only need to heat through and pick up the flavours).

If you like coconut milk and a creamier finish, add in a cup to the mixture before adding the prawns, and heat through. Garnish with chopped coriander (and an optional squeeze of lemon or lime).

Serve with plain rice and another lightly sautéed vegetable (zucchini, egg plant, Chinese cabbage...).

Some after thoughts

As you can see, prawns/shrimp lend themselves to a lot of dishes - often with similar ingredients in different combinations. Quantities in these recipes are flexible, depending on your appetite for sea food - some people find it very filling - and people's appetites generally. For starving teenagers and young adults pile in the vegetables, rice or croutons as appropriate, for diet-conscious adults, focus on small quantities of well flavoured prawns/shrimp in whatever setting (avocado, salad, risotto, bisque or sautéed). Left-overs can all be frozen - except the fresh avocado and plain cooked rice!

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